biggest waves of the year almost killed us. the ocean floor felt amazing as i was smashed and rolled over it. Oh, and by the way i don't know how to blog or what to write. the board shot out of the water like a spaceship and almost ripped my leg off. every one laughed at me:( Then i showed them up and road a 40 foot wave but it was only actually 10 or 12 which is still huge!!!!!! ps Dave and i look dang good in wet suits
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